PhilosophyI began designing pedals in secondary school, and have remained fixated ever since. My design style might be thought of as a hybrid combination of vintage and modern technologies. I build each pedal myself, by hand, as I would for myself or a close friend. This is a one-person project. My pedals are designed, drilled, powder coated, printed, soldered, and assembled at home, in the south-eastern suburbs of Melbourne, Australia.
parts, qualityAll pedals have a 10 year warranty. Here are some of the high quality parts which I commonly use in (most of) my pedal designs:
news and updates - Follow along:
|
|
GERMANIUM AMPLIFIER |
|
OPTICAL TREMOLO |
|
BIIIG FUZZ |
|
ULTRA RAD DISTORTION |
|
ТРАНЗИСТОР |
|
AC128 ARBITRARY FUZZ |
|
THD |
|
BIG FUZZ |
|
RAD DISTORTION |
|
FFS |
|
TSX OVERDRIVE |
|
TWIN FET BOOSTER |
|
STEREO PANNING OPTICAL TREMOLO |
|
BROWN SOUND |
|
TWEEDSVILLE |
|
DISCRETE BOOST |
CLASS A Germanium amplifier V2
Voicing switch:
GE / SI N.B. for purity of design, this pedal uses a positively grounded case. As such, it needs to be run from an isolated power supply, or battery. IE this pedal may not be suitable for a daisy-chain power supply. Battery use is not necessarily preferred.
or |
Mike Hermans | |
@_guitar_dad | |
COLEMAN's MUSIC |
OPTICAL TREMOLO My tremolos are easily my favourite circuits, and have occupied more of my design time than anything else. This was my first effect design from scratch, which I started in high school. Development took over a decade before I was happy with it. By shining a fading light against a photo-sensitive field, this tremolo uses all-analog photo-coupling to restrict and fluctuate the output volume. Careful waveform construction, with non-linear photocell coupling, creates an organic and lively volume fluctuation, far divorced from sounding like a basic electronic waveform function. The square wave is similarly processed, so as not to sound like a computer. Symmetry switch: This toggles between two modes which are subtly different. The asymmetric mode (up) has a slightly uneven rhythmic pattern. I feel this mode is sweeter, as it has a less obvious tempo. The modulation ascent and decent waveforms have slightly different shapes, which change and adapt for volume with different speeds and depths. This can be heard with emphasis in the original liquid spinning can tremolos. I prefer to use the asymmetrical mode for the square wave, as the signal stays 'on' longer, with less gap time. The symmetrical mode (down) has an even 360 degree spin, with a very slightly deeper scoop. It has a classically pronounced tremolo shape. This circuit operates with in a split rail power supply for increased headroom, and has a very low noise level. As with all of my tremolo models, you should expected perceived unity volume with all depth and rate settings, without having to make any manual volume adjustments. The wet level can be adjusted internally by a trimpot.
or |
Mike Hermans | |
@_GUITAR_DAD |
James Ryan | |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show | |
_guitar_dad | |
brett kingman | |
@_GUITAR_DAD | |
Average.Punter | |
InTheBlues |
Biiig Fuzz
This pedal was intentionally designed to look as homemade as possible, while still being built like a tank. The point-to-point application comes from my youth, here I worked in a valve amplifier factory exclusively with tag strip. There's no user manual. I assume that this won't be your first muff. The only thing to know is that the 73 switch toggles between standard muff setup (LED red) to a '73 Supa setup (LED green). The 73 mode has less diode compression on the low-end, widening the dynamic range in the bass, and allowing the natural transistor fuzz character to be better heard. There is no internal battery space. A battery may be used by means of an external adapter (IE). This pedal is expensive, as it takes me days to build. Built to-order. Please allow up to approximately one week construction time before posting.
"It sounds like... God. If God was a Big Muff pedal. If God was a fuzz pedal, I reckon, you know, it might sound like this" - Brett Kingman.
or |
BRETT KINGMAN | |
BRETT KINGMAN | |
BRETT KINGMAN | |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show |
BRETT KINGMAN | |
@_GUITAR_DAD | |
Workshop Assembly | |
ASSEMBLY TIMELAPSE |
ULTRA RAD DISTORTION
A larger, point-to-point version of the compact Rad Distortion. This pedal can be used either as a classic ratty fuzz/distortion, or as a raunchy germanium overdrive. This is a sound of the '80s and '90s, with some Dazatronyx tweaks. The 'stock' silicon mode is the classic ratty sounding fuzz-distortion. This is achieved by a two-stage distortion of first overdriving the metal can 308 amplifier into fuzz, and then recovering some shape by further compressing the signal using hard-clipping silicon diodes. In the germanium mode, the silicon chip fuzz character gets removed. Germanium transistors and germanium diodes are used to achieve a rounded and organic overdrive-distortion. The HAIR control dials the mid/high drive saturation. Turning this completely to the right achieves the classic metally ratty distortion. Turning this left achieves a full, flattened response. This is a variable version of the reutz mod. There is no internal battery space. A battery may be used by means of an external adapter (IE). This pedal is expensive, as it takes me days to build. Built to-order. Please allow up to approximately one week construction time before posting.
or |
average.punter & _guitar_dad collab. | |
AVERAGE.PUNTER |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show | |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show | |
Rhys Warden | |
Brett kingman (teaser) | |
Abel Franco | |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show |
ТРАНЗИСТОР
The ТРАНЗИСТОР (transistor) is a faithful recreation of the famous and most sought-after Russian Muff. I've kept the design true to the original, but have also added the mids control, as this has been too helpful to neglect. This creates exactly the original tone when rotated fully left. This model provides a more musical clarity and bloom in the lower frequencies. Notes on the construction? It is all designed, powder coated, drilled, printed, soldered, and assembled at home. The powder coat is by Dulux Australia (super tough), and won't flake like the originals. Carbon film resistors are used, keeping to the classic builds. Polystyrene capacitors are used for the smoothing caps; two 1000pF in series at each stage like the originals. Soviet black glass diodes are used for clipping.
or
This project is also available as a complete DIY kit, or just the PCB (not including components). The kit version does not include the metal foot switch dress nut shown in the photo. The enclosure supplied in the kit comes pre-drilled and printed with a smilar "DIY version" artwork. If you'd like to build this pedal even cheaper, consider buying the hardware and components delivered directly from Tayda Electronics, as they have fast and economical delivery of cheap parts.
Complete DIY build kits are temporarily suspended while I restock parts. PCBs are still available.
or
DIY build documents:
|
@_GUITAR_DAD | |
EDGE OF BREAKUP | |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show | |
Robert J. Sedky |
@_GUITAR_DAD | |
DESIGN TIMELAPSE |
AC128 ARBITRARY FUZZ This is an old-recipe, classic germanium fuzz, built to end your Fuzz Face search. New-old-stock European AC128 transistors are used, housed on a turret circuit board. The Roger Mayer Hendrix mods have been implemented, which make better use of AC128 transistors. These mods notably output higher gain than the standard fuzz face, and cleans up neater with the volume knob rolled back. The FUZZ knob has an extended range, and improved sweep. There is no internal battery space. A battery may be used by means of an external adapter (IE). This pedal should be placed first in the signal chain to voice correctly, connected directly to the instrument, and before any buffered pedals. The aluminium can capacitors are ridiculously oversized for their rated voltages. They are audio rated for very low ESR, and low leakage. This circuit uses PNP type transistors. The power supply input is the industry standard 9V type with negative centre. However, for purity of sound; the case is positively-grounded, and as such cannot share a power supply with other pedals unless the supply has isolated outputs. The transistors used are cherry-picked for suitability from my collection which I have saved for many years, and as such are limited in availability. First in, best dressed. Germanium transistors are temperature sensitive, and will perform differently according to the ambient temperature. A Carling DPDT footswitch is used for the familiar under-foot haptic clunk. Components used may vary to those shown in the photo. Photos are shown as a general guide for construction and components quality. Current builds are with a swirl paint finish. Each is unique. Please contact me to discuss available options for swirl dip enclosures. Examples can be found in previous social media posts.
or |
Jackson Brooksby | |
brett kingman |
BRETT KINGMAN | |
BRETT KINGMAN | |
@_GUITAR_DAD | |
Abel Franco | |
SHAUN KLINGER |
THD The THD is an '80s metal fuzz distortion, a rework of the original Japanese HM-2. This was my first guitar pedal, which later formed its own cult following. By using a dual-gang potentiometer, the DISTORTION knob has been redefined from the sloppy classic one. This is actually a dual-function control for two cascading gain stages: The first half of the range of the DISTORTION knob controls a full-bodied fuzz. The second half adds a further layer of compression and sustain. The signal is processed through germanium diodes in the final compression stage. This is a crucial part of the tone, which would be omitted from commercial reissues due to RoHS. The LO+ and HI+ are frequency boost controls. For a flat EQ response, try starting with these set to zero, rather than high noon. If you want to 'max out' all of the controls for the Swedish chainsaw tone, then you will need to reduce the VOL control to-taste, as it has an increased output level from the classic. Japanese polyester audio capacitors are used, as well as low noise resistors (higher quality than the through-hole counter-parts), and low ESR ceramic power filter capacitors for the SMD version. These do not suffer the limited shelf life of electrolytic capacitors, and are distributed throughout the board in key locations, rather than one large electro filter cap serving the whole circuit. Low noise audio amplifier chips have been used. Please note that the two toggle 'mod' toggle switches shown in some videos are from the first version, are not included as standard.
or
This project is also available as a complete DIY kit, or just the PCB (not including through-hole components). The circuit board comes pre-loaded with ICs, SMD resistors, power filter capacitors (no need for any elecrolytics), and silicon diodes. The through-hole audio capacitors and germanium diodes must be soldered by the builder. The kit version does not include the metal foot switch dress nut shown in the photo. Don't feel intimidated by the surface mount components. Having this work pre-done drastically decreases the chances of human error, and makes this otherwise complex circuit have a very high chance of build success, particularly for beginners. The kit version does not include the metal foot switch dress nut shown in the photo. The enclosure supplied in the kit comes pre-drilled and printed with a smilar "DIY version" artwork. The print can be sanded off if you want to do your own painting or artwork. If you'd like to build this pedal even cheaper, consider buying the hardware and components delivered directly from Tayda Electronics, as they have fast and economical delivery of cheap parts.
Complete DIY build kits are temporarily suspended while I restock parts. PCBs are still available.
or
Build documents:
Previous build documents: |
brett kingman |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show | |
LEON TODD | |
@_GUITAR_DAD | |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show | |
SHAUN KLINGER |
BIG FUZZ The Big Fuzz began as a muff circuit, which has been critically re-tuned to improve the tone, playability, and versatility of the pedal. The MIDS control knob sweeps from the classic scoop, through to a more focused modern tone, with everything nice in the middle. (Classic muff scooped mids will be found around the 9 o'clock position). The BMP/STB switch toggles between a modified muff setup, to a 1973 Colorsound Supa Tonebender mode (with the variable mid knob, of course). The STB mode has less diode compression on the low-end, widening the dynamic range in the bass, and allowing the natural transistor fuzz character to be better heard. This fuzz uses gain-selected transistors, and black glass silicon diodes.
or |
|
MIKE HERMANS |
@_Guitar_dad | |
WORKSHOP | |
brett kingman | |
A todo Fuzz | |
Rhys Warden | |
brett kingman | |
KFIRO | |
@_GUITAR_DAD | |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show | |
KFIRO | |
The Pedal Picassos | |
InTheBlues | |
Captain Cherry's Guitar Lounge | |
SHAUN KLINGER (iphone) | |
The Fifth String | |
The Fifth String |
RAD DISTORTION
The HAIR control dials the mid/high drive saturation. Turning this completely to the right achieves the classic metallic ratty distortion. Turning this left achieves a full, flattened response. This is a variable version of the reutz mod. An "XL" model is also available in a Hammond 1590N1 (125B) size case.
or
Build documents:
|
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show | |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show |
Rhys Warden | |
Brett kingman (teaser) | |
Abel Franco | |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show |
FFS A recreation of the EJ silicon Fuzz Face.
or
This project is also available as a complete DIY kit, or just the PCB: Complete DIY build kits are temporarily suspended while I restock parts. PCBs are still available.
or If you'd like to build this pedal even cheaper, consider buying the hardware and components delivered directly from Tayda Electronics, as they have fast and economical delivery of cheap parts. Build documents:
|
@_guitar_dad | |
Abel Franco |
TSX OVERDRIVE
The classic TS10 stock tone is achievable in STD mode, as well as two other variation modes:
The gain control has twice the amount of gain range as a classic TS. The extended range begins at the 2 o'clock position onwards. The chip has been upgraded to a higher performance audio amplifier by JRC (Japanese Radio Company). The 'soft clipping' is achieved using three black glass silicon diodes.
or |
@_GUITAR_DAD | |
The Super Fun Awesome Happy Time Pedal Show |
Shaun Klinger | |
Workshop Assembly |
TWIN FET BOOSTER
This is the continuation of a design which I have been building over the years under the names Fetish Booster and Little Fetish. This discrete circuit is an adaption of a valve topology used to squeeze extra gain from vacuum tubes. 5457 Field effect transistors are used, being the closest sold-state counterparts. The body control shapes the output tone. Turn it all the way up for a full bodied, flat frequency response. The Twin FET Booster runs on a split-rail power supply (-9, 0, +9) for increased headroom. Noise levels are very low. There is an internal gain adjustment trimpot which can be dialed for clinical sterility, through to crunchy FET breakup. This circuit is also available as a DIY build as the Discrete Boost. The artwork was drawn by Melbourne artist Mr Kade.
or |
The Super Fun Awesome Happy Time Pedal Show |
PROFESSIONAL DRIVE XL This is the result of my work redeveloping the classic TS overdrive circuit over many years, and critically evaluating every tone-shaping aspect of the signal path. This XL sized version is 808-based, and using over-spec'd parts. The three-way switch which toggles between three modes, which is helpful to suit a broader range of pickups and play styles.
The gain control has twice the amount of gain range as a classic TS. The extended range begins at the 2 o'clock position onwards.
or Please note: The second toggle switch option seen in the demo videos below is no longer included in the current production model for sale here. I found that the tone knob can make a setting which sounds the same as the "2 knob" mode, so it was removed. Components used may vary to those shown in the photo. Photos are shown as a general guide for construction and components quality. EMS Express international delivery is still sometimes taking a little over a week to depart Australia. Once landed, it usually is delivered very quickly as a regular express courier service. |
InTheBlues | |
Captain Cherry's Guitar Lounge |
![]() |
STEREO PANNING
By shining a fading light against a photo-sensitive device, this tremolo uses all analog photo-coupling to restrict and fluctuate the output volume. There is automatic perceived volume compensation for the full sweep of the controls. This is a stereo variation of my smaller Optical Tremolo. It can take a stereo input, or split a mono guitar input between stereo channels. The PAN switch changes the oscillator of each channel to be out of sync - so one comes up in volume while the other drops. This creates a strange swirling effect. All original analog circuitry and true bypass mechanical switching. As with all of my tremolo models, you should expected perceived unity volume with all depth and rate settings, without having to make any manual volume adjustments. The wet level is adjustable internally by a trimpot.
The new boards are using surface-mount assembled parts. This has allowed me to upgrade many aspects, including using Burr Brown audiophile amplifier chips. The signal is now processed with a true split rail power supply (not a voltage doubler), thus eliminating the need for audio coupling capacitors, and has the highest headroom, and lowest noise levels of any model so far. SMD multi layer ceramic capacitor arrays are used for power filtering instead of electrolytic capacitors, offering much lower ESR. This also extends the service life of the pedal, as there are no shelf life concerns as with ceramic capacitors which common electrolytic capacitors have. Nor are ceramic capacitors prone to leakage or value drift issue. SMD capacitors are not used in the audio path. Only low noise thin film resistors are used for the audio path. This has allowed me to keep the price down after materials cost inflation, while moving to much more complicated circuits where human assembly error is a significant concern.
Currently out of stock. Find more in stock at: |
Mike Hermans |
Brett Kingman | |
James Ryan | |
Shaun Klinger | |
@theaustralianguitarshow |
BROWN SOUND
Back in the day, it was one of the highest-recommended builds on the forums. Forums were a thing. Many would suggest that this design was the original precursor to many of the "high gain amp" pedals that came out in the 2000s. It has a tonne of gain, and can dial in a fat bottom end to fake a big amp sound. Some pedals claim to "stack well" together, but the Brown Sound can also be a "stack" all by itself. This circuit also responds excellently to rolling back the instrument volume knob. It stacks best with other drive pedals running into the input. Distortion is achieved by overdriving NOS Fairchild 5457 field effect transistors (FETs), being the closest solid-state relative to vacuum tubes. There are three stacked gain stages. No diodes are involved for distortion This build uses a hybrid mix of both surface mount and through-hole assembled components (SMD).
or
This project is also available as a complete DIY kit, or just the PCB (not including through-hole components). The circuit board comes pre-loaded with SMD resistors, power filter capacitors (no need for any elecrolytics), and protection diode. The through-hole audio capacitors and 5 surface mount transistors must be soldered by the builder. If you are not confident in soldering the SMD transistors, then please let me know and I can do that part. If this is your first experiene with SMD but you are otherwise experienced with soldering, then I say: "give it a go". The kit version does not include the metal foot switch dress nut shown in the photo. The enclosure supplied in the kit comes pre-drilled and printed with a smilar "DIY version" artwork. The print can be sanded off if you want to do your own painting or artwork. If you'd like to build this pedal even cheaper, consider buying the hardware and components delivered directly from Tayda Electronics, as they have fast and economical delivery of cheap parts.
or Build documents: |
Robert J. Sedky | |
LEON TODD | |
@_GUITAR_DAD | |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show | |
BRETT KINGMAN |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show | |
Captain Cherry's Guitar Lounge | |
DEVELOPMENT | |
FIRST DEMO |
![]() |
BROWN SOUND X TSX
or |
The Super Fun Awesome HappyTime Pedal Show | |
DEVELOPMENT |
Tweedsville
This circuit is where I have landed from requests to build a pedals similar to the Lovepedal Les Lius, which is fundamentally a '70s Electra Distortion circuit.
Components used may vary to those shown in the photo. Photos are shown as a general guide for construction and components quality. Some carbon comp resistors have changed to carbon film type. |
Robert J. Sedky | |
@_guitar_dad | |
ADAM MILLER |
harmonic OPTICAL TREMOLO MK1 The function of a 'harmonic' tremolo, as opposed to a regular tremolo, could normally be described as splitting the audio spectrum into two registers of treble and bass, and then modulating the volume of each register in opposing directions. IE at one side of the wave you hear the treble, and at the other side you hear the bass. This build is not a black face style tremolo. This particular circuit works a little differently. Instead of modulating the volume of two registers, it actually modulates the frequency cut of each register. This is done using two very particular photocell sensors, paired against lights which fade in and out. Think of turning two low-pass and high-pass frequency knobs at the same time. As with all of my tremolo models, you should expect perceived unity volume in all modes with all depth and rate settings, without having to make any manual volume adjustments. The wet level can be adjusted internally by a trimpot. There is an internal voltage boost for increased headroom, while keeping low noise levels. Last unit.
|
Rhys Warden |
TRI PEDAL REVIEWS | |
James Ryan | |
James Ryan | |
James Ryan | |
James Ryan | |
Joshua Cheyenne |
TSUCHI FUZZ v2
For a classic germanium fuzz, dial the GAIN back, and turn the CUT right up. Leave the BASS EXPANDER off. For some reshaped flavour: turn the GAIN up higher. This is more gain than you should rightfully squeeze out of a two-transistor fuzz, but dialing the CUT knob back a little can tighten the bottom-end flabbiness and make some refined fuzz-drive. The BASS EXPANDER can optionally be used to-taste to replace the low end reduced by the CUT control. N.B. for purity of design, this pedal uses a positively grounded case. As such, it needs to be run from an isolated power supply, or battery. IE this pedal may not be suitable for a daisy-chain power supply. Battery use is not necessarily preferred. Not in production |
Mike Hermans |
James Ryan |
More on youtube...
|
DISCRETE BOOST
The controls are MASTER (volume) and BODY. With the BODY knob turned fully up, you get a flat and even boost across all frequencies. GAIN can be set by an internal trimpot, or a fixed value resistor. To make things simple, there are some pre-installed surface-mount parts included (shown). These mostly help to build the power sections. This leaves only a small handful of audio parts left to solder, saving you on part costs, and build complexity errors. The surface-mount multilayer ceramic capacitors offer superior ESR properties, and don't have the short-lived shelf life as compared with the electrolytic capacitors. Included SMD parts are: schottky polarity protection diode, self-resetting overcurrent fuse, 33K LED limiter (with through-hole option for value reduction), 3M3 input pull-down resistor, and 12x 22μF capacitors for power switching and filtering. No other parts are included. I have previously built this circuit under the names "Fetish Booster" and "Little Fetish". Circuit boards are posted as letter post.
Build Documents:
or |
Contact Darron Thornbury
Email me at thornbury@gmail.com. I might be a little slow to respond sometimes, but am happy to help out wherever I can.
Please note that I am not taking orders for custom builds. I am also not interested in modifying or repairing pedals of other builders and brands, as I'd rather spend time working on my own effects.
Please follow Dazatronyx on Instagram and Facebook to receive the latest news. |