CLASS A

Germanium amplifier V2

Voicing switch:

• Mid: Effective at boosting for more drive, without the bottom end getting too flabby.
• Bright: Slightly fuller than a classic treble booster.
• Full Cream: Extra body, and fat tone.

GE / SI
Silicon mode can be used as a backup in extreme temperatures, or for some harder clipping texture. This switch mechanically 'hot swaps' the transistor. Expect a small pop noise.

N.B. for purity of design, this pedal uses a positively grounded case. As such, it needs to be run from an isolated power supply, or battery. IE this pedal may not be suitable for a daisy-chain power supply.

This is built in a small-footprint Hammond 1590B enclosure.

AUD$229 Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

USD$159 Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

My tremolos are easily my favourite circuits, and have occupied more of my design time than anything else. This was my first unique effect circuit design from scratch, which I started in high school. Development took over a decade before I was happy with the way that it sounded and functioned.

By shining a fluctuating light against a photo-sensitive field, this tremolo uses all-analog photocoupling to restrict and modulate the output volume. Careful waveform construction, with non-linear shaping, creates an organic and lively volume fluttering, far divorced from sounding like a basic electronic waveform function. The square wave is similarly processed, so as not to sound like a computerised chop.

Symmetry switch: This toggles between two modes which are subtly different. The asymmetric mode (up) has a slightly uneven rhythmic pattern - think of the first spinning liquid can tremolos. I feel this mode is sweeter when the playing tempo is not matching with the tremolo rate.

The symmetrical mode (down) has an even 360 degree spin, with a very slightly deeper scoop. It has a classically pronounced tremolo shape - think of a rotary speaker.

I generally prefer to use the asymmetrical mode for the square wave, as the signal stays 'on' longer, with less gap time. The symmetrical mode (down) square wave will give more perceived depth.

This circuit operates with in a split rail power supply for increased headroom, and has a very low noise level.

As with all of my tremolo models, you should expected perceived unity volume with all depth and rate settings, without having to make any manual volume adjustments. The wet level can be adjusted internally by a trimpot.

AUD$199 Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

USD$149 Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

TSX XXL

My take on the famous Ibanez TS10 Tubescreamer, constructed entirely point-to-point on tagstrip. Featuring:

• NOS Japanese Radio Company (JRC) high-performance audio amplifier IC.
• Extended double gain range. This is shown from 2 o'clock onwards on the knob.
• Three-way toggle for different clipping modes. This expands versatility with different pickups and play styles.
• Separately biased input buffer, not at half-supply. This is taken from the buffered bypass circuit of the TS10.

This pedal is built to order, as it takes multiple days to finish. Please allow approximately 1 week construction time. For demos, check out the standard size TSX build.

AUD$589 Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

USD$399 Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

BLACK RUSSIAN XXL

Version 7C "Bubble Font" Green Russian / Black Russian build. This is a very similar circuit to the ТРАНЗИСТОР build. This can also be built as the Tall Font version on request.

Featuring:

• Point-to-point soldering and construction
• Mid control (stock setting is all the way left)
• Nichicon Japanese audio capacitors
• Xicon polystyrene smoothing capacitors
• Soviet glass clipping diodes
• GØRVA footswitch

Built to-order. Please allow approximately one week construction time before posting. I am now using the "correct" soviet diodes (not shown in gut shot).

Model

Version 7C "Tall Font" Version 7C "Bubble Font"

AUD$599 Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

Model

Version 7C "Tall Font" Version 7C "Bubble Font"

USD$399 Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

Biiig Fuzz

A point-to-point version of my compact Big Fuzz pedal.

This pedal was intentionally designed to look as homemade as possible, while still being built like a tank.

The point-to-point application comes from my youth, when I worked in a valve amplifier factory exclusively with tag strip.

There's no user manual. I assume that this won't be your first muff. The only thing to know is that the 73 switch toggles between standard muff setup (LED red) to a '73 Supa setup (LED green). The 73 mode has less diode compression on the low-end, widening the dynamic range in the bass, and allowing the natural transistor fuzz character to be better heard.

There is no internal battery space. A battery may be used by means of an external adapter (not supplied).

This pedal is expensive, as it takes me days to build. Built to-order. Please allow approximately one week construction time before posting.

Components used may vary to those shown in the photo. Photos are shown as a general guide for construction and components quality.

"It sounds like... God. If God was a Big Muff pedal. If God was a fuzz pedal, I reckon, you know, it might sound like this" - Brett Kingman.

AUD$720 Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

USD$469 Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

ULTRA RAD DISTORTION

A larger, point-to-point version of the compact Rad Distortion.

This pedal can be used either as a classic ratty fuzz/distortion, or as a raunchy germanium overdrive. This is a sound of the '80s and '90s, with some Dazatronyx tweaks.

The 'stock' silicon mode is the classic ratty sounding fuzz-distortion. This is achieved by a two-stage distortion of first overdriving the metal can 308 amplifier into fuzz, and then recovering some shape by further compressing the signal using hard-clipping silicon diodes.

In the germanium mode, the silicon chip fuzz character gets removed. Germanium transistors and germanium diodes are used to achieve a rounded and organic overdrive-distortion with tight definition.

The HAIR control dials the mid/high drive saturation. Turning this completely to the right achieves the classic metally ratty distortion. Turning this left achieves a full, flattened response. This is a variable version of the popular reutz mod.

There is no internal battery space. A battery may be used by means of an external adapter (not included).

This pedal is expensive, as it takes me days to build. Built to-order. Please allow approximately one week construction time before posting.

AUD$720 Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

USD$469 Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

ТРАНЗИСТОР

The ТРАНЗИСТОР (TRANSISTOR) is a faithful recreation of the famous and most sought-after V7C "Tall Font" Russian Muff. I've kept the design true to the original, but have also added the mids control, as this has been too helpful to neglect. This creates exactly the original tone when rotated fully left. This model provides more musical clarity and bloom in the lower frequencies.

Notes on the construction? It is all designed, powder coated, drilled, printed, soldered, and assembled at home. The powder coat is by Dulux Australia, and won't flake like the originals. Carbon film resistors are used, keeping to the classic builds. Polystyrene capacitors are used for the smoothing caps; two 1000pF in series at each stage like the originals. I am now using the "correct" soviet diodes (not shown in gut shot).

Model

Built by Darron $299.00 AUD Complete DIY kit $129.00 AUD PCB only $15.00 AUD

Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

Model

Built by Darron $199.00 USD Complete DIY kit $99.00 USD PCB only $12.00 USD

Delivered world-wide. PCBs are sent by international letter post. See returns policy.

This project is also available as a complete DIY kit, or just the PCB (not including components). The kit version does not include the metal foot switch dress nut shown in the photo. The enclosure supplied in the kit comes pre-drilled and printed with a smilar "DIY version" artwork.

If you'd like to build this pedal even cheaper, consider buying the hardware and components delivered directly from Tayda Electronics, as they have fast and economical delivery of parts.

DIY build documents:

• Bill of materials
• Parts layout
• Schematic
• High-res gut shot
• Tayda drill layout (order any colour you want)

This is an old-recipe, classic germanium fuzz, built to end your Fuzz Face search. New-old-stock European AC128 transistors are used, housed on a turret circuit board.

The Roger Mayer Hendrix mods have been implemented, which make better use of AC128 transistors. These mods notably output higher gain than the standard fuzz face, and cleans up neater with the volume knob rolled back. The FUZZ knob has an extended range, and improved sweep.

There is no internal battery space. A battery may be used by means of an external adapter.

This pedal should be placed first in the signal chain to voice correctly, connected directly to the instrument, and before any buffered pedals.

The aluminium can capacitors are ridiculously oversized for their rated voltages. They are audio rated for very low ESR.

This circuit uses PNP type transistors. The power supply input is the industry standard 9V type with negative centre. However, for purity of sound; the case is positively-grounded, and as such cannot share a power supply with other pedals unless the supply has isolated outputs.

The transistors used are cherry-picked for suitability from my collection which I have saved for many years, and as such are limited in availability. First in, best dressed. Germanium transistors are temperature sensitive, and will perform differently according to the ambient temperature.

A Carling DPDT footswitch is used for the familiar under-foot haptic clunk. Components used may vary to those shown in the photo. Photos are shown as a general guide for construction and components quality.

Silver hammertone powder coat by Dulux Australia.

$329 Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

USD$229 Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

^ Four knob only version - hybrid SMD + hand soldered version.

^ + 2x mod switches through-hole hand-soldered. Boards are now completely black colour - not copper as shown.

The THD is an '80s metal fuzz distortion, a rework of the original Japanese HM-2. This was my first guitar pedal, which later formed its own cult following.

By using a dual-gang potentiometer, the DISTORTION knob has been redefined from the sloppy classic one. This is actually a dual-function control for two cascading gain stages: The first half of the range of the DISTORTION knob controls a full-bodied fuzz. The second half adds a further layer of compression and sustain.

The signal is processed through germanium diodes in the final compression stage. This is a crucial part of the tone, which would be omitted from commercial reissues due to RoHS.

The LO+ and HI+ are frequency boost controls. For a flat EQ response, try starting with these set to zero, rather than high noon. If you want to 'max out' all of the controls for the Swedish chainsaw tone, then you will need to reduce the VOL control to-taste, as it has an increased output level from the classic.

This circuit has been built in two forms. The standard four knob version is a hybrid assembly of surface-mount and through-hole parts. These parts have improved noise and longevity characteristics. A through-hole version is also available with two toggle switches: FOCUS and SI/GE. The FOCUS switch changes the bass boominess. The SI/GE switch hot-swaps the main distorting transistor for a gain-selected germanium device. This has a rounder and smoother distortion, where the silicon mode is fuller with squared clipping.

Please note that some early version demos show two toggle mod switches. These are not included as standard. The four knob version uses the standard silicon mode with full ++ bass.

This is built in a small-footprint Hammond 1590BS enclosure.

Model

Standard - 4 knobs only $229.00 AUD +2 mod switches. Through-hole parts $269.00 AUD Complete DIY kit (4 knobs only SMD version) $119.00 AUD 4 knob only surface-mount partially populated PCB only $32.00 AUD Through-hole +2 mod switches PCB only $9.00 AUD

Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

Model

Standard - 4 knobs only $159.00 USD +2 mod switches. Through-hole parts $189.00 USD Complete DIY kit (4 knobs only SMD version) $99.00 USD 4 knob only surface-mount partially populated PCB only $23.00 USD Through-hole +2 mod switches PCB only $9.00 USD

Delivered world-wide. PCBs are sent by international letter post. See returns policy.

This project is also available as a complete DIY kit, or just the PCB (not including through-hole components). The circuit board comes pre-loaded with ICs, SMD resistors, power filter capacitors (no need for any elecrolytics), and silicon diodes. The through-hole audio capacitors and germanium diodes must be soldered by the builder. The full kit version does not include the metal foot switch dress nut shown in the photo.

Don't feel intimidated by the surface mount components. Having this work pre-done drastically decreases the chances of human error, and makes this otherwise complex circuit have a very high chance of build success, particularly for beginners.

The kit version does not include the metal foot switch dress nut shown in the photo. The enclosure supplied in the kit comes pre-drilled and printed with a smilar "DIY version" artwork. The print can be sanded off if you want to do your own painting or artwork.

If you'd like to build this pedal even cheaper, consider buying the hardware and components delivered directly from Tayda Electronics, as they have fast and economical delivery of parts.

4 knob surface-mount hybrid build documents:

• Build video guide
• Gut shot
• Bill of materials and build notes
• 1590BS parts layout and drilling cut-out
• 1590N1 / 125B (larger size) drill layout cut-out

Through-hole +mod switches documents:

• Bill of materials and build notes
• Gut shot (current boards are black and do not have visible copper traces)
• PCB component placement
• 1590BS Drill layout cut-out
• 1590N1 / 125B (larger size) Drill layout cut-out

BLACK RUSSIAN

Version 7C "Bubble Font" Green Russian / Black Russian build, in a compact 1590B footprint enclosure. This is a very similar circuit to the larger-box ТРАНЗИСТОР "Tall Font" build. I am now using correct soviet diodes. Current builds are now on a raw metal enclosure, not black powder coat as previously made.

Featuring:

• Mid control (stock setting is all the way left)
• Nichicon Japanese audio capacitors
• Xicon polystyrene smoothing capacitors
• Correct Soviet glass clipping diodes
• GØRVA footswitch
• Small-footprint Hammond 1590BS enclosure

This project is also available as a complete DIY kit, or just the PCB. The kit version does not include the metal foot switch dress nut shown in the photo. The enclosure supplied in the kit comes pre-drilled and printed with a smilar "DIY version" artwork on a raw metal box. The print can be sanded off if you want to do your own painting or artwork. Contact me if you would like me to include a 1:1 scale printed drill template for the enclosure of your choice.

This board layout can be used to make any other version of transistor muff by changing to the corresponding part values.

Model

Built by Darron $219.00 AUD Complete DIY kit $114.00 AUD PCB only $9.00 AUD

Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

Model

Built by Darron $159.00 USD Complete DIY kit $92.00 USD PCB only $9.00 USD

Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

Build documents:

• Bill of materials and build notes
• 1590BS parts layout and drilling cut-out
• 1590N1 / 125B (larger size) drill layout cut-out
• Schematic (offboard wiring not shown)
• High-res gut shot.

RAD DISTORTION

This pedal is the classic ratty fuzz/distortion. This is a sound of the '80s and '90s, with some Dazatronyx tweaks. This is achieved by a two-stage distortion of first overdriving the metal can 308 amplifier into fuzz, and then recovering some shape by further compressing the signal using hard-clipping silicon diodes.

The HAIR control dials the mid/high drive saturation. Turning this completely to the right achieves the classic metallic ratty distortion. Turning this left achieves a full, flattened response. This is a variable version of the popular reutz mod.

In the (optional) germanium mode, the silicon chip fuzz character gets removed. Germanium transistors and germanium diodes are used to achieve a rounded and organic overdrive-distortion with tight definition. While this adds interesting versatility, the stock silicon mode is still my favourite setting.

Model

SM case $235.00 AUD XL case $249.00 AUD XL complete DIY kit $139.00 AUD ULTRA Rad point-to-point $720.00 AUD

Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

Model

SM case $169.00 USD XL case $183.00 USD XL complete DIY kit $99.00 USD ULTRA Rad point-to-point $469.00 USD

Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

Build documents:

• XL Bill of materials

BIG FUZZ

The Big Fuzz is a muff circuit, which has been critically re-tuned to improve the tone, playability, and versatility of the pedal. This is a modern fuzz-distortion, with a big sound and higher gain and sustain than the classic Russian version muffs which I make.

The MIDS control knob sweeps from the classic scoop (all the way left), through to a more focused modern tone, with everything nice in the middle. This flattens out the effect of the hi-low TONE control knob.

The BMP/STB switch toggles between a modified muff setup, to a 1973 Colorsound Supa Tonebender style mode (with the variable mid knob, and an altered tone pot sweep). The STB mode has less diode compression on the low-end, widening the dynamic range in the bass, and allowing the natural transistor fuzz character to be better heard.

This fuzz uses gain-selected transistors, and original clipping diodes (different from those shown in gut shot). This is built in a small-footprint Hammond 1590BS enclosure. There is also a point-to-point "XXL" model available. The current cases have raw metal sides, not black powder coat as previously made.

AUD$219 Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

USD$159 Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

A recreation of the EJ silicon Fuzz Face. This is built in a small-footprint Hammond 1590BS enclosure.

Model

Built by Darron $199.00 AUD Complete DIY kit $99.00 AUD PCB only $9.00 AUD

Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

Model

Built by Darron $159.00 USD Complete DIY kit $89.00 USD PCB only $9.00 USD

Delivered world-wide. See returns policy. PCBs are sent by international letter post.

This project is also available as a complete DIY kit, or just the PCB. Contact me if you would like me to include a 1:1 scale printed drill template for the enclosure of your choice.

If you'd like to build this pedal even cheaper, consider buying the hardware and components delivered directly from Tayda Electronics, as they have fast and economical delivery of parts.

Build documents:

• Bill of materials and build notes
• 1590BS parts layout and drilling cut-out
• 1590N1 / 125B (larger size) drill layout cut-out
• Schematic (offboard wiring not shown)
• Tayda drill layout. Order any colour you want. (UNVERIFIED)

TSX OVERDRIVE

The TS10 circuit had some minor variations to the TS9 and TS808 circuits, and is now highly sort after for its secret-sauce flavour.

This circuit includes the true TS10 stock tone in STD mode, as well as two other variation modes:

• STD - Classic tubescreamer symmetrical clipping, with the traditional mids focus.
• ASYM - Asymmetrical clipping shape begins to ‘look’ more like valve amplifier clipping. This can better suit input signals which already have a full bottom-end, such as a neck pickup, and allows chord detail to better shine through.
• FAT - Asymmetrical clipping, with a fuller bottom-end.

The gain control has twice the amount of gain range as a classic TS. The extended range begins at the 2 o'clock position onwards.

The current builds use the following high quality parts:

• Polypropylene tone capacitors. These provide a more linear and sweeter frequency curve over most capacitor types.
• Obsolete SIP-8 (single inline pin package) high performance audio amplifier chip by JRC (Japanese Radio Company).
• Long-life-stable and high tolerance metal film MELF resistors. These are over-spec'd for voltage and current ratings.
• Long-life and low ESR power filtering caps. Along with the MELF resistors, this ensures that the pedal has a very long life and won't need servicing over time.
• True bypass.

This is built in a small-footprint Hammond 1590BS enclosure. A point-to-point "XXL" version is also available.

AUD$189 Delivered within Australia only. See returns policy.

or

USD$149 Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

BROWN SOUND

The BSIAB2 circuit (Brown Sound in a Box 2) was my favourite distortion during school. The cool thing was; if you wanted one, you just had to build one. Or know somebody who would. The circuit was designed by Ed Guidry, similar to works by Jack Oran and Aron Nelson.

Back in the day, it was one of the highest-recommended builds on the forums. Forums were a thing. Many would suggest that this design was the original precursor to many of the "high gain amp" pedals that came out in the '00s.

It has a tonne of gain, and can dial in a fat bottom end to make a big amp sound. Some pedals claim to "stack well" together, but the Brown Sound can also be a "stack" all by itself, as it cascades three gain stages. This circuit also responds excellently to rolling back the instrument volume knob. It stacks best with other drive pedals running into the input.

Distortion is achieved by overdriving Fairchild 5457 field effect transistors (FETs), being the closest solid-state relative to vacuum tubes. Diodes are not used for distortion.

This build uses a hybrid mix of both surface-mount (SMD) and through-hole assembled components. Why go SMD on this one? A while back, Fairchild stopped producing the through-hole versions of some of our beloved, once common parts, such as the 2N5457, and the J201. The market quickly filled with counterfeit parts. The building community adapted to accept using the known SMD versions, rather than trying to hunt new-old-stock versions through non-reliable distributors. These parts numbers are now being reproduced at a premium price by different manufacturers.

The SMD versions is, after all, the exact same transistor, however packaged in a different way which is more convenient for machine handling and assembly. In that fashion, the SMD resistors used are selected for lower noise than common through-hole versions. The SMD multilayer ceramic power filter capacitors have superior performance characteristics over the common electrolytic tube capacitors, as well as not suffering from limited shelf life associated with electrolytic. This makes for reliable circuit which can perform consistently for a long lifetime.

Audio capacitors used are polypropylene, polystyrene, and polyester.

This is built in a small-footprint Hammond 1590BS enclosure.

Model

Built by Darron $199.00 AUD Complete DIY kit $99.00 AUD Partially populated PCB $19.00 AUD

Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

Model

Built by Darron $149.00 USD Complete DIY kit $89.00 USD Partially populated PCB $15.00 USD

Delivered world-wide. PCB are sent by international letter post. See returns policy.

This project is also available as a complete DIY kit, or just the PCB (not including through-hole components). The circuit board comes per-loaded with SMD resistors, power filter capacitors (no need for any electrolytics), and protection diode. The through-hole audio capacitors and 5 surface mount transistors must be soldered by the builder. If you are not confident in soldering the SMD transistors, then please let me know and I can do that part for you. If this is your first experience with SMD but you are otherwise experienced with soldering, then I say: "give it a go".

The kit version does not include the metal foot switch dress nut shown in the photo. The enclosure supplied in the kit comes per-drilled and printed with a similar "DIY version" artwork.

If you'd like to build this pedal even cheaper, consider buying the hardware and components delivered directly from Tayda Electronics, as they have fast and economical delivery of parts.

Build documents:

• Bill of materials and build notes
• 1590BS parts layout and drilling cut-out
• 1590N1/125B parts layout and drilling cut-out
• Schematic (offboard wiring not shown)
• High-res gut shot.
• Video of similar style 1590BS build/assembly process

Tweedsville

The three-position switch toggles between amp models of varying gain and bottom-end saturation. This is achieved by a bipolar silicon transistor preamp, with secondary distortion created by J201 field effect transistors.

This circuit is where I have landed from requests to build a pedals similar to the Lovepedal Les Lius, which is fundamentally a '70s Electra Distortion circuit.

This is built in a small-footprint Hammond 1590BS enclosure.

AUD$185. Free delivery worldwide. See returns policy.

Please note that carbon comp resistors are no longer used.

PROFESSIONAL DRIVE XL

This is the result of my work redeveloping the classic TS overdrive circuit over many years, and critically evaluating every tone-shaping aspect of the signal path.

This XL sized version is 808-based, and using over-spec'd parts.

The three-way switch which toggles between three modes, which is helpful to suit a broader range of pickups and play styles.

• STD - Classic TS symmetrical clipping, with a focus on mids.
• ASYM - Asymmetrical clipping shape begins to ‘look’ more like valve amplifier clipping. This can better suit input signals which already have a full bottom-end, such as a neck pickup, and allows chord detail to better shine through.
• FAT - Asymmetrical clipping, with a fuller bottom-end.

The gain control has twice the amount of gain range as a classic TS. The extended range begins at the 2 o'clock position onwards.

Please note: Carbon comp resistors are no longer used for this build (as shown in the gut shot). Large carbon film and metal film resistors are used. The gut shot therefor should only be used as an indication of the build quality.

AUD$249 Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

USD$179 Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

Please note: The second toggle switch option seen in some old demo videos below is no longer included in the current production model for sale here. I found that the tone knob can make a setting which sounds the same as the "2 knob" mode, so it was removed. Components used may vary to those shown in the photo. Photos are shown as a general guide for construction and components quality. The carbon comp resistors shown are now replaced for 1W carbon film, and 3W metal film in noise-critical locations.

TWIN FET BOOSTER

This is the continuation of a design which I have been building over the years under the names Fetish Booster and Little Fetish. This discrete circuit is an adaption of a valve topology used to squeeze extra gain from vacuum tubes. 5457 Field effect transistors are used, being the closest sold-state counterparts.

The body control shapes the output tone. Turn it all the way up for a full bodied, flat frequency response.

The Twin FET Booster runs on a split-rail power supply (-9, 0, +9) for increased headroom. There is an internal gain adjustment trimpot which can be dialed for clinical sterility, through to crunchy FET breakup.

The artwork was drawn by Melbourne artist Mr Kade.

This is built in a small-footprint Hammond 1590BS enclosure. This circuit is also available as a DIY build as the Discrete Boost.

AUD$169 Delivered within Australia or New Zealand. See returns policy.

or

USD$125 Delivered world-wide. See returns policy.

STEREO PANNING

 OPTICAL TREMOLO

After a decade of development, I've created this completely unique circuit as my ideal tremolo. This is easily my favourite effect circuit.

By shining a fading light against a photo-sensitive device, this tremolo uses all analog photo-coupling to restrict and fluctuate the output volume. There is automatic perceived volume compensation for the full sweep of the controls.

This is a stereo variation of my smaller mono Optical Tremolo. It can take a stereo input, or split a mono guitar input between stereo channels. The PAN switch changes the oscillator of each channel to be out of sync - so one comes up in volume while the other drops. This creates a strange swirling effect. All original analog circuitry and true bypass mechanical switching.

As with all of my tremolo models, you should expected perceived unity volume with all depth and rate settings, without having to make any manual volume adjustments. The wet levels are adjustable internally by a trimpots.

Currently out of stock here.

harmonic

OPTICAL TREMOLO MK1

This build is not a black face style tremolo. This particular circuit works in a unique way, as two varying high-pass and low-pass filters. Instead of modulating the volume of two registers, it actually modulates the frequency cut of each register. This is done using two very particular photocell sensors, paired against lights which fade in and out. Think of turning two low-pass and high-pass frequency knobs at the same time.

This model uses relay switching to include the basic tremolo function from my classic Optical Tremolo design, as well as the asymmetrical square wave.

As with all of my tremolo models, you should expect perceived unity volume in all modes with all depth and rate settings, without having to make any manual volume adjustments. The wet levels can be adjusted internally by a trimpot. There is an internal voltage boost for increased headroom, while keeping low noise levels.

This version uses surface-mount components to compact it down to a small 1590BS enclosure. 100% Analog circuity. True bypass. There is no internal battery space.

Production of this pedal is paused, while I'm trying out some new ideas. Don't hold your breath... Thank you for your interest.

Not currently in production

TSUCHI FUZZ v2

The Tsuchi Fuzz V2 takes a new look at the classic two-transistor fuzz circuit. The circuit's tone has been carefully evaluated at every shaping point, to produce either classic or modern fuzz tones.

For a classic germanium fuzz, dial the GAIN back, and turn the CUT right up. Leave the BASS EXPANDER off.

For some reshaped flavour: turn the GAIN up higher. This is more gain than you should rightfully squeeze out of a two-transistor fuzz, but dialing the CUT knob back a little can tighten the bottom-end flabbiness and make some refined fuzz-drive. The BASS EXPANDER can optionally be used to-taste to replace the low end reduced by the CUT control.

N.B. for purity of design, this pedal uses a positively grounded case. As such, it needs to be run from an isolated power supply, or battery. IE this pedal may not be suitable for a daisy-chain power supply. Battery use is not necessarily preferred.

This is built in a small-footprint Hammond 1590B enclosure.

Not currently in production

DISCRETE BOOST

This is an easy beginner project; a discrete boost using two JFETs. There are options for either through-hole transistors, or SMD pads. The IC chip is used to create a split rail power supply (+9V, 0V, -9V) for doubled headroom.

The controls are MASTER (volume) and BODY. With the BODY knob turned fully up, you get a flat and even boost across all frequencies. GAIN can be set by an internal trimpot, or a fixed value resistor.

To make things simple, there are some pre-installed surface-mount parts included (shown). These mostly help to build the power sections. This leaves only a small handful of audio parts left to solder, saving you on part costs, and build complexity errors.

The surface-mount multilayer ceramic capacitors offer superior ESR properties, and don't have the short-lived shelf life as compared with the electrolytic capacitors. Included SMD parts are: schottky polarity protection diode, self-resetting overcurrent fuse, 33K LED limiter (with through-hole option for value reduction), 3M3 input pull-down resistor, and 12x 22μF capacitors for power switching and filtering. No other parts are included.

I have previously built this circuit under the names "Fetish Booster" and "Little Fetish".

Circuit boards are posted as letter post.

Build Documents:

• Bill of materials and build notes
• Schematic
• 1590BS Drill layout cut-out
• 1590N1 / 125B (larger size) Drill layout cut-out

or